Anderson How to Make Classic Wooden Toys

Woodworkers' Plans for 15 Sturdy Toys That Go, Plus Skill-Building Techniques
1. Auflage 2025
ISBN: 978-1-63741-357-9
Verlag: Fox Chapel Publishing
Format: EPUB
Kopierschutz: Adobe DRM (»Systemvoraussetzungen)

E-Book, Englisch, 144 Seiten

Don't just make a toy, create an heirloom! Toymaker Brad Anderson's motto is 'Wood toy plans for all ages. Designed to be built tough, to be passed down, and to last.' Join him as he shares decades of woodworking wisdom so you can make durable, kid-safe vehicle toys that youngsters will enjoy. Starting with sections on wood selections, tool guides, design basics, and toy safety, he then jumps into 16 projects with high-quality illustrated step-by-step instructions for a racecar, fighter jet, helicopter, tugboat, golf cart, skip loader and more, all include moving parts that swing, open, shut, roll, and spin! The projects range from beginner to advanced so there is a project for everyone to tackle. Delight children everywhere with their own homemade toy.

Brad Anderson is a continuous improvement engineer with a degree in Mechanical Engineering. His passion for design is evident in his hobby of creating and crafting toys. Several of his designs have been featured in Scroll Saw and Woodworking Magazine. Additionally, he dedicates time to making toys that he donates to local charitable organizations.

Autoren/Hrsg.

Anderson, Brad

Leseproben

Getting Started

Toy-making requires a solid understanding of the materials and tools essential for creating durable and enjoyable toys. This section will introduce you to the basics from selecting the right wood to understanding the design process. I'll ensure you have a practical foundation to start crafting toys that are both safe and functional.

Toy Design

Designing toys is my favorite part of the process. The most important thing to keep in mind when designing toys for children is that toys are meant to be tough and built for play, not just for display.

My inspiration for toy ideas comes from various sources, but most often, my designs are based on real vehicles. Once I have an idea, I research the project. I conduct image searches to get a better understanding of the key features of my subject. Then, I move on to hand sketches, outlining concept drawings with some rough dimensions and constraints.

When I’m comfortable with my sketches, I transition to CAD (Computer-Aided Design) software for a more detailed design. I’ve used a variety of CAD tools, including Fusion 360, SketchUp, Autodesk Inventor, and SolidWorks. Each has its pros and cons, but the primary goal is to ensure that all the toy's pieces fit together seamlessly. This step helps me figure out how to make the parts, assemble the toy, and get a sense of the final size. It’s where I find answers to design questions that I thought about while researching the toy.

While designing parts in a CAD program, I make sure to design them as they would be made in a woodshop, because these programs can sometimes create parts that are challenging or impossible to machine or drill. Each part starts as a blank piece, then is cut and drilled as it would be done in the shop. Once the design is complete, I create plans for each part, aiming to keep them sized to fit on a standard sheet of paper. These plans serve as templates for making the toys and undergo testing and revisions as needed. As I make these designs for the first time, I make notes on the plans and adjust the designs until I'm satisfied.

An example of a toy concept rendered by CAD software.

When designing toy pieces, I aim to size them to fit on a standard sheet of paper and ensure they are easy to cut and drill.

Patterns vs. Templates

When working with patterns, I start by making two copies of the drawings. The first set serves as my reference and is stapled together. This helps keep me on track during the woodworking project, and I take notes of the process or things I have learned. The second set is used for creating patterns or templates. When I’m making multiples of the same toy, I often use cardstock paper templates, which are easy to make.

Many parts will not need a pattern or template to be made. There are several parts where the dimensions can be taken from the part drawing and copied to the part blank. These parts usually have minimal work to make them, as with the chassis. When the part is difficult or has curves, it is easier to put the pattern on the wood itself.

Attaching parts by using a pin nail is a more reliable way to prevent them from coming loose.

Patterns

Transferring precise dimensions, especially curves and arcs, to a blank can be challenging. Using patterns glued directly to the wood is often more efficient. Start by making a copy of the pattern and checking that the dimensions are accurate. If not, adjust the printer/ copier settings to ensure there is proper scaling.

To attach the pattern, first cut it out, then apply a layer of painter’s tape to the wood. Use spray adhesive to glue the pattern to the tape, which allows for easy removal later.

For more intricate projects, affix a pattern directly to your workpiece to ensure you cut the correct dimensions.

Templates

When I am making many copies of one toy, I use a more robust material to make a template to trace onto the part. I often use ?" (3mm) hardboard or thin scrap stock, which lasts longer than the cardstock templates. To create a template, simply cut a piece of thin material to match the size of the part you’re working on. Next, glue the pattern onto the hardboard and proceed to cut the template out on the scroll saw. These templates have a notable advantage: they are reusable and can make more than one part. Though they may be a bit weightier and less convenient to attach to the drawings, they significantly outlast the lighter cardstock templates.

When making many copies of a single toy, use a hardy material to make a template you can reuse.

If the templates require holes, I do not drill the actual size. I drill a ?" (3mm) hole in the center and use a nail set or awl to make an indentation where the hole is supposed to go.

Relative Dimensions

When it comes to reading plans, remember that they are excellent for conveying ideas, and they are most effective when all the parts are made with precision. This is where the concept of relative dimensioning comes into play. It’s a practical approach that ensures the parts fit together seamlessly. Instead of fixating on achieving absolute precision in dimensions, keep in mind that these are toys, not fine furniture. The crucial aspect is to ensure the pieces fit well together, ensuring safe and enjoyable playtime experiences.

Tools

One aspect of making toys is that you don’t need a workshop filled with fancy tools. While various tools can make the process easier, the essential toolkit for making toys can be divided into three categories: hand tools, power tools, and additional tools.

Power Tools

Table saw. The table saw is the workhorse in my shop. I use it for cutting blanks and grooving. You can use a benchtop saw, but I find the cabinet saw superior if you will be making many projects. Cabinet saws have better fences and can accommodate a dado stack, which is necessary for the projects in this book.

Push blocks. It is important to keep hands and fingers away from the blade. The push stick is good, but it does not work when cutting strips less than ?" (9.5mm) wide. This is where push blocks come in handy.

Table Saw Safety Tips

•    Ensure the fence and blade are parallel for safe rip cuts.

•    Set the fence to the correct distance for the cut width.

•    Make sure the riving knife or blade guard is in place.

•    Use a push stick for cuts less than 4" (102mm).

•    For crosscuts, use the miter gauge and move the fence to avoid kickback.

•    Kickback occurs when the material binds between the blade and fence, so keep this area clear.

•    Attach a reference block to the fence in front of the blade for consistent cuts and to prevent binding.

Here, I’m using a miter gauge to provide stability while crosscutting.

Miter gauge. This makes angled cuts easier and can also provide more stability when crosscutting.

Miter saw. These are used to cut angles and crosscut pieces to a consistent length. They easily handle long pieces with additional support, making batching parts quick, but aren't safe for cutting small pieces under 3" (76mm). To cut angled backs (like on a race car or Model T), set the miter saw angle, cut lengths slightly longer than needed, and trim to size with a scroll saw. For identical parts, set a stop block to cut pieces to the same length. Avoid forcing material against the stop block, as this can shift it and cause inconsistencies.

Scroll saw. The scroll saw allows me to add details and contours to the toy designs. For the designs in this book, a high-end scroll saw is not required I recommend getting a scroll saw that uses a pinless blade. The internal cutouts are large and there are no intricate designs to cut out. If you are looking to do more intricate designs, research the different brands of saws and the difference between pinned and pinless blades. (See Introduction to Scroll Saws 28.)

Router. The router has many different uses and abilities. I use it to profile parts (soften the hard edges). A powerful router is not needed for these toys and may be harder to use. The important part is that it is mounted to a table, and you are not freehand routing parts. I will always make my parts oversized for the router. The tops of the fenders are all routed, so I cut a longer piece and adhere the pattern to the piece. I cut out where the profile is to be cut and then profile the part before cutting it completely out. This is shown in the profiling of the fenders for the bus. This keeps the part larger so it is easier to hold or use a push pad. I also use the router to ease the inside edges of windows and cutouts. I use a ?" (3mm) roundover bit to ease the back side of cut outs.

Drill press. The drill press drills the holes for your wheels and dowels. It is important that it is able to drill straight and make repeatable actions. I have been able to do most of the drilling on my benchtop drill press. The success of your drill press mostly comes down to setup. I have a 2" (51mm) square block of wood that clamps to the table of...