Cantista / Sádaba Understanding Luxury Fashion

From Emotions to Brand Building
1. Auflage 2019
ISBN: 978-3-030-25654-8
Verlag: Springer Nature Switzerland
Format: PDF
Kopierschutz: 1 - PDF Watermark

E-Book, Englisch, 294 Seiten

Reihe: Palgrave Advances in Luxury

Offering an original contribution to the field of luxury and fashion studies, this edited collection takes a philosophical perspective, addressing the idea that humans need luxury. From this framework it delves deep into two particular dimensions of luxury, emotions and society, and concludes with cases of brand building in order to illustrate the two dimensions at work. Comparative analysis between countries is brought together with an emphasis on China. Chapters address the ongoing growth in the market, as well as the significant changes in the sector brought about by fast international expansion and an increased focus on ethical supply and sustainability, making the book an insightful read for scholars of fashion business, luxury and branding.

Isabel Cantista is Associate Professor of Marketing, Innovation and Entrepreneurship at Lusíada University of Porto, Portugal, where she teaches both undergraduate and postgraduate courses. She is also a Visiting Professor at ISEM Fashion Business School, University of Navarra, Spain, where she teaches Fashion Innovation. In 2008 Isabel founded the Global Fashion Conference (GFC), with the aim to bring together academics and fashion professionals to collaborate in the promotion of a sustainable development model for fashion business. Teresa Sádaba is the Dean of ISEM Fashion Business School at the University of Navarra, Spain, where she launched the doctorate in Applied Creativity. Teresa has a teaching background in political science and has held academic positions at a number of institutions around the world including George Washington University in the USA and the University of Paris in France.

Autoren/Hrsg.

Cantista, Isabel

Sádaba, Teresa

Inhaltsverzeichnis

1;Foreword;7
2;Contents;9
3;Notes on Contributors;11
4;List of Figures;18
5;List of Tables;20
6;List of Boxes;21
7;Part I Introduction;22
8;1 Understanding Luxury Fashion: Origins and Contemporary Issues;23
8.1;Bibliography;31
9;2 Understanding Luxury: A Philosophical Perspective;33
9.1;Introduction;33
9.2;A Specifically Human Phenomenon;34
9.3;The Human Being as a Being Made for Luxury;38
9.4;Luxury and Freedom;40
9.5;The Ambivalence of the Superfluous—The Ethical Dimension of Luxury;43
9.6;Conclusion;46
9.7;References;48
10;Part II Understanding Luxury and Emotions;49
11;3 From Mere Luxury to Unique Lifestyle: The Transformation of Taste in the ‘Age of Glamour’;50
11.1;Luxury and Society: Evolution of a Paradoxical Relation;50
11.2;Luxuriousness, Between Luxury and Necessary Gains;58
11.3;Consumer Culture and the Taste for Luxuriousness;62
11.4;Italian Experience: Luxury Products for Luxurious Experiences;68
11.5;Chinese Consumers: In Search for Luxuriousness?;72
11.6;Concluding Remarks;76
11.7;References;78
12;4 The Dark Side of Luxury: When Negative Emotions Are Felt by Very Wealthy Consumers;81
12.1;Introduction;81
12.2;Luxury and Culture;83
12.3;Luxury and Emotions;84
12.4;Research Method;85
12.5;Findings;86
12.5.1;Negative Emotions—Fear, Anger, Sadness;86
12.5.2;Shame and Guilt;89
12.6;Discussion and Conclusion;96
12.7;Appendix;100
12.8;References;101
13;5 Future Luxury: Fashioning Wellbeing Through Holistic Design;106
13.1;Luxury in the Anthropocene: Introduction;106
13.1.1;The Contemporary Luxury Landscape;107
13.2;Wellbeing as the New Luxury;109
13.2.1;Wellbeing Today;109
13.2.2;Some Dynamics of Luxury and Wellbeing;110
13.3;Luxury with Good Intentions: Formulating a Holistic Design Methodology for Luxury Fashion;112
13.3.1;Lessons from Other Disciplines;112
13.3.2;A Holistic Methodology for Future Luxury Clothing;114
13.4;Case Study: The Barkcloth Research Network—A Holistic Research Project for Luxury Fashion;114
13.4.1;Background;114
13.4.2;The ‘Borrowed Cloth’ Model;117
13.4.3;Holistic Design for a New Luxury;118
13.4.4;Material for a New Luxury;119
13.4.5;Therapeutic Dyes for a New Luxury;122
13.4.6;Sourcing for a New Luxury;124
13.4.7;Designing a New Luxury;126
13.4.8;Crafting a New Luxury;128
13.4.9;Goodness as Luxury;129
13.5;Imparting Wellbeing Through Luxury Fashion;130
13.6;References;132
14;Part III Understanding Luxury and Society;137
15;6 Sustainable Luxury: The Effect of Corporate Social Responsibility Strategy on Luxury Consumption Motivations;138
15.1;Introduction;138
15.2;Conceptual Framework;141
15.3;Case Studies’ Analysis;145
15.3.1;The Case of Brunello Cucinelli;145
15.3.2;The Case of Armani;146
15.3.3;The Case of Prada;147
15.3.4;The Case of Fendi;148
15.4;Experimental Study;149
15.4.1;Methodology;150
15.5;Results;151
15.6;Conclusions and Implications for Theory and Practice;153
15.7;Appendix A: Experimental Study Text;155
15.8;Appendix B: Experimental Study Results;157
15.9;References;158
16;7 Luxury Perfume Brands and Millenial Consumers;162
16.1;Introduction;162
16.2;Perfume Trends and the Luxury Perfume Market;164
16.3;The Millennial Consumer and Perfume Consumption;167
16.4;Consumer Brand Relationship (CBR) and Brand Loyalty;168
16.5;Brand Attachment;171
16.6;Methodology;173
16.7;Findings and Conclusion;174
16.8;Predictor Factors and Facilitators of Fragrance Purchasing for Millennial Women;174
16.9;Celebrity Branding;177
16.10;Importance of Attachment Towards Fragrance Brands;179
16.11;Factors Influencing Consumer Innovativeness;181
16.12;Conclusions;183
16.13;References;184
17;8 The Evolution of the Chinese Luxury Fashion Consumer: An Interpretive Study of Luxury Value Perceptions;189
17.1;Introduction;189
17.2;The Development of China’s Luxury Fashion Market;191
17.3;The Chinese Luxury Fashion Consumer;193
17.4;Conceptualising Luxury Fashion Value: A Chinese Perspective;195
17.4.1;Financial Value;196
17.4.2;Conspicuous Value;197
17.4.3;Functional Value;199
17.4.4;Hedonic Value;200
17.5;Methodology;201
17.6;Findings and Discussion;204
17.6.1;Financial Value;206
17.6.2;Conspicuous Value;207
17.6.3;Functional Value;208
17.6.4;Hedonic Value;209
17.7;Conclusion;211
17.8;References;212
18;Part IV Case Studies: Brand Building and Communication;217
19;9 Speedy Tuesday: Omega’s Adoption of Communication 4.0;218
19.1;Introduction;218
19.2;Theoretical Research Framework;220
19.2.1;The Web 4.0 as a Communications and Social-Commerce Space;220
19.2.2;The Dilemma of Luxury Brands;221
19.2.3;Brand Experience;221
19.3;Choice of Terrain, Objectives and Research Protocol;222
19.4;Results of the Analysis;224
19.4.1;The Birth of a Community;224
19.4.1.1;Original Heroic Figures;224
19.4.2;Praxeological Dimension and Co-creation of the Experience;225
19.4.3;Hybridization of Shopscapes and New Communication Codes;226
19.5;The Brand’s Narrative of the Operation;227
19.6;Theoretical Discussion and Contributions for Marketing;228
19.6.1;Towards a Morphing Between the Sales Channel and the Communication Channel;228
19.6.2;The Global Dimension: Towards a Specific Geography;229
19.6.3;The Energy of Desire and Marketing 4.0;229
19.7;Limitations of the Study, Future Research Avenues and Managerial Implications;230
19.8;References;232
20;10 Brand Building: The Case of Collaboration Between Javier Carvajal and Loewe;234
20.1;Introduction;234
20.2;Case Study;236
20.3;Methodology;237
20.4;Literature Review;238
20.5;Loewe the Brand: Origin and Values;240
20.5.1;Carvajal and Loewe—The 50s;241
20.5.2;The Modern World—Nordic Influences;244
20.5.3;Form-Space;246
20.5.4;Material;249
20.5.5;Design;250
20.6;Conclusions;251
20.7;References;253
21;11 Rapha: Weaving Story Strands of Luxury;255
21.1;Setting the Scene;255
21.2;Rapha and Clothing;259
21.3;Rapha and Leisure;265
21.3.1;Rapha’s Shelter and Sustenance;274
21.4;Conclusion;280
21.5;References;281
22;Author Index;286
23;Subject Index;289