Caputo A Beginner's Guide to Quilting

A complete step-by-step course
1. Auflage 2023
ISBN: 978-1-80065-282-8
Verlag: CICO Books
Format: EPUB
Kopierschutz: 6 - ePub Watermark

E-Book, Englisch, 160 Seiten

A complete quilting course for beginners, in 12 easy stages A Beginner's Guide to Quilting is the perfect introduction to this popular craft. Beginning with the 'Getting Started' section, quilting teacher Michael Caputo will show the tools and equipment, and demonstrate the sewing skills you will need, plus the basics of constructing your quilt. Section two is a series of 12 workshops, each introducing you to new skills, with a project at the end which enables you to practise what you have just learned. You'll learn about joining pre-cut squares, sashing, piecing and paper piecing, using templates, and the different types of appliqué. All through the workshops there are helpful hints on choosing colours and patterns, and there are illustrations of variations on the basic blocks to show how those choices will affect the end result. With step-by-step text and clear illustrations, you'll soon be making a table runner and cushion covers, before moving on to wall hangings, a cot quilt and a throw. The final project is a full-size bed quilt with elaborate stitching to really show off all your new skills.

Autoren/Hrsg.

Caputo, Michael

Leseproben

What is quilting?

Like all disciplines, quilting and patchwork have their own terminology, which can be a little confusing for beginners—so here’s a brief introduction to what it all means.

While most quilters refer to their own piecing as “quilting,” technically it should be called “patchworking.” Patchworking is the act of sewing different fabrics together to create a larger single unit. This unit might be a finished quilt top, or a smaller, fixed-size, unit known as a “block” that is then combined with other units to make a larger piece.

There are literally thousands of block patterns (I’ve only touched on a few here, but if you’re interested in exploring this aspect of quilting further, there are numerous books on the market). Most blocks are designed in a geometric pattern.

Basic block configurations include four-patch, using four squares arranged in two rows of two; nine-patch, nine squares arranged in three rows of three; and 16-patch, which has—you guessed it—16 sections in four rows of four. There are countless variations on the ways individual blocks can be pieced: you can use squares, HSTs (half square triangles, see page 46), quarter square triangles, or substitute a rectangle for two side-by-side squares. In addition to patchworking pieces of fabric together to create a block, you can also just stitch one shape on top of another—a process known as “appliqué.” Even blocks that do not have a geometric layout, like crazy patchwork or stitch and flip string blocks (see page 68) are all generally made to a specific shape and size, making it easy to join them together to assemble the top. There are infinite possibilities, which makes quilting unique to the person making the quilt. Once you’re used to the idea, you’ll soon get the hang of drafting out patterns of your own on graph paper.

There are also many different ways, or “settings,” in which you can join blocks together. You can join them together edge to edge, with nothing in between; alternate plain and patchwork blocks; turn blocks around (this often creates interesting secondary patterns that run across the whole quilt); and arrange blocks with strips of plain fabric (known as “sashing”) between them.

Even from this very brief description, you can see that patchworking affords almost infinite scope for design variations—and that’s one of the things that makes it so intriguing and satisfying. And although patchworking is generally associated with making quilts, you can patchwork most sewing projects. Why not take your favorite skirt pattern and add a patchwork look to it by piecing an area of fabric to cut your pattern from? Alternatively, try patchwork on a bag or even add it to your embroidery projects.

But the quilt top is only part of the quilt-making process. Strictly speaking, “quilting” is the process of stitching together the three layers of a quilt—a patchworked top layer, a middle layer of cozy batting (wadding), and a backing fabric.

The final stage in making a quilt is to neatly cover the edges with binding. Binding can be bold and create a hard edge to your quilt or it can blend in as the quilt just fades to an end. I like adding a playful edge by making my binding from scraps along with a contrasting print.

Quilt sizes

When deciding how big to make a quilt, I like to measure the actual bed if I can. Even if you are using an existing pattern, you can always find a way to adjust the finished size to fit by adding more blocks or making the sashing or outer border wider or narrower if you know what you need as a final size.

Using a tape measure, measure the width of the mattress top from left to right, then add the length of the drop on both sides. (The drop is the amount of the quilt that hangs over the sides of the mattress.) You will also need to measure the length you want. Measure the mattress from head to foot and add the same drop used on the sides. At this point you will need to decide if you want the quilt to cover your pillows or to lay under them, as you will need to allow a bit extra if the quilt is to go over the pillows.

If you can’t measure the bed you’re making the quilt for (if you’re making it as a gift, for example), here is a rough idea of the number of finished 12-in. (30-cm) blocks you will need to create the following quilts.

Baby: 9 blocks (3 rows of 3 blocks) or 12 blocks (4 rows of 3 blocks)

Crib (UK Cot): 20 blocks (5 rows of 4 blocks)

Twin (UK Single): 54 blocks (9 rows of 6 blocks)

Queen (UK Double): 72 blocks (9 rows of 8 blocks)

King: 90 blocks (9 rows of 10 blocks)

Tools and equipment

When you start quilting, you don’t have to go out and buy every tool ever made. A few essentials are all you need. You can add specialty tools as you progress and grow. This is what I suggest you have as a basic kit.

Sewing machine

This is probably the most expensive part of sewing and quilting. If you are a beginner, you don’t need to splurge on a super-pricey machine with thousands of options. Choose a machine that fits your budget and will allow you to adjust the needle position left and right. If you decide to go for a really inexpensive machine, you will find that you will not have many options or control and will most likely end up buying another one a few months later when you fall in love with quilting. Look for a well-equipped sewing machine with a few basic decorative stitches. If you can find one that has a needle down function, get it. Your machine can be manual or digital.

¼-in. (6-mm) foot

There are several different versions, so pick the one that best works for you. Using this foot will help you sew seams that are a consistent ¼ in. (6 mm) in width, which is a must in patchworking (see page 31).

Walking foot

Also known as an even feed foot, this specialist foot is a must for any quilter. Just as the feed dogs on the machine pull the fabric from the bottom, a walking foot pulls the fabric from the top. When you are working with thicker materials, this will help to eliminate uneven stitching.

Zipper foot

Perfect for installing a zipper into fabric, this foot can be used on either the right or left side of the needle and allows extremely close stitching without hitting the teeth on the zipper.

Quilter’s pins (or glass-headed straight pins) and a pincushion

Quilter’s pins are long thin pins with a plastic flower head for easy grabbing. Glass-headed straight pins are great if you need to press while your pieces are pinned. Don’t press when using quilter’s pins, as the plastic heads will melt.

Curved or straight safety pins

With curved safety pins, you can easily scoop the three layers of your quilt sandwich when basting. The straight version works just as well, but requires a bit more fiddling.

Iron and ironing board

Essential for pressing your seams correctly. Your household iron will do just fine—there is no need for a special iron as long as it has a steam function.

Rotary cutter, self-healing cutting mat, and quilter’s rulers

Rotary cutters come in different sizes—25mm, 45mm, and 90mm. The 45mm cutter is a great universal size for quilting. Opt for a cutter with automatic safety guard. Use your cutter with a quilter’s ruler on a self-healing cutting mat to cut precisely measured fabric units. To begin with, I recommend that you buy a 6 x 24-in. (15 x 60-cm) ruler for cutting fabric from the bolt and a 12½-in. (32-cm) square ruler for making sure your blocks are trimmed square and ready for assembly. You can get more rulers as you need them.

Fabric scissors (large and small)

It is best to have 8-in. (20-cm) scissors for more general cutting like circles or appliqué shapes. Small scissors are great for snipping loose threads. Never use your fabric scissors to cut paper, as this will blunt the blades.

Hand sewing needles

“Sharps” are the standard quilting needle. They come in a variety of lengths and points, and are perfect for hand piecing and attaching binding.

Seam ripper

A small seam ripper usually comes with your sewing machine, but if it does not this piece of kit should be number 1 on your list. The sharp point allows you to glide under a tight stitch while the blade breaks the thread.

Quilter’s pen or pencil

There are dozens of different pencils and pens used in quilting. Soft pencils allow for the transfer of templates and patterns to the wrong side of the fabric. A chalk pencil will allow you to draw a line on the right side of your fabric and will easily brush off, so be careful. A water- or air-soluble pen will draw sharp lines and will disappear either with water or over time in the air.

Fabrics for quilting

Choosing fabric for your quilts can be both stressful and enjoyable: there are so many options that your head will spin. So how can you begin to make sense of it all?

Types of fabric

I prefer to use 100% cotton fabrics whenever possible, but just buying cotton isn’t that simple. Some manufactures have different levels of cotton fabric. Those being sold to quilting stores are generally a higher quality than cotton from the five and dime. The higher the thread count, the better your end product will be. Although bolts of fabric do not specify the thread count, you can easily tell if it is a good weight cotton with a higher than normal thread count by...