Dedekam Illustrated Seamanship

Ropes and Ropework, Boat Handling, Anchoring
2. Auflage 2017
ISBN: 978-1-909911-97-0
Verlag: Fernhurst Books Limited
Format: EPUB
Kopierschutz: Adobe DRM (»Systemvoraussetzungen)

E-Book, Englisch, Band Book 2, 96 Seiten

Reihe: Illustrated Nautical Manuals

For any sailor, in a yacht or motorboat, the passage from one place to another is relatively easy, particularly with modern navigation equipment. What can be more of a challenge (and a potential source of anxiety for skipper and crew) is the start and end of a passage - how to leave and arrive safely, particularly if it's a cramped marina or crowded anchorage. In Illustrated Seamanship, Ivar Dedekam takes you through the techniques required to achieve a safe departure and arrival. Starting with the fundamentals of ropework he then moves on to manoeuvring, berthing, making fast and then leaving. All types of berthing are covered from coming alongside, stern to, bow to, between finger pontoons and using piles and buoys. There is advice about dealing with different wind and current directions as well as using springs. Ivar then turns to anchoring and offers guidance on setting and weighing anchor in many different circumstances: under sail and under power, using one or two anchors and coping with changes in wind and tide while anchored. You probably won't experience all the scenarios that Ivar so carefully describes, but you will certainly come across quite a few. Knowing what to do when a new situation comes up could be invaluable, increasing your confidence and leading to greater enjoyment and use of your boat. With over 500 diagrams, this slim volume is a perfect reminder of frequently used techniques and could be your get-out-of-jail card when a new circumstance arises. This new edition has an improved layout and the eBook's functionality has been improved significantly.

Ivar Dedekam, of Dedekam Design, specialises in uniquely illustrated nautical manuals which are easy to understand and remember. Ivar has been sailing for over 30 years and has logged more than 50,000 nautical miles, including three Atlantic crossings. His book Illustrated Sail & Rig Tuning is an international success and has been published in 24 languages.

Autoren/Hrsg.

Dedekam, Ivar

Leseproben

ROPEWORK

This chapter outlines the minimum level of knowledge of knots and hitches, whipping, splicing, etc. that you should have in order to make long passages. Remember that it is better to know a few knots well than to half-know many.

Take your time to learn these knots so that you are able to tie them quickly. Ideally you should be able to tie the knots with one hand and blindfolded! A good basic knowledge of ropework, knots and hitches may save both life and gear in dangerous situations.

Ropes are made of short fibres that are spun into yarns, which are then made into flat or twisted strands. Finally, the strands are spun or braided to make the finished rope. The two main types of rope are:

? Laid rope: Three-strand rope (two- and four-strand ropes also exist) is made of strands twisted together in the opposite direction to that of the yarns, normally to the right (Z-laid), but sometimes to the left (S-laid).

? Braided rope: Is made in different ways. The yarns are normally braided to form a sheath covering an inner core of yarns, which may again be braided or lightly twisted together.

THE BASICS

Material

Natural fibres like hemp, manila and sisal were used for all rope until the 20th century. These fibres were derived from various plants and usually made into laid rope. Today, most rope is made from synthetic fibres.

The fibre type determines, to a large degree, the rope’s properties:

? Multifilament: Thin threads giving a supple / soft rope

? Film: A flat, wide fibre used in cheap rope

? Monofilament: A thick fibre giving a stiffer rope

The material used can be divided into four groups:

? Polyester (Terylene) makes high quality rope made of multifilament fibres. The rope is supple (and remains supple), well protected against sunlight and sinks. A high breaking strength makes it suitable for anchor and mooring lines. Pre-stretched polyester rope, which gives minimum stretch, is used for sheets and halyards

? Polyamide (Nylon) rope made of multifilament fibres is a high-stretch rope much used in fishing and shipping. They have, like polyester ropes, high abrasion resistance and don’t float. In addition, they are very elastic, making them suitable for towing, mooring and climbing ropes. They are available in laid, braided and multibraided forms

? Polyethylene rope made of monofilament fibres is smooth, with a relatively hard surface. This rope is used for heavy fishing gear due to its very high abrasion resistance

? Polypropylene fibres make low-cost, all-purpose ropes. They are light and float, making them suitable as rescue or short mooring lines. However, the ropes have a low resistance to abrasion and sunlight. Polypropylene ropes come in a number of forms. Rope made from film fibres is inexpensive but should not be used on yachts, at least not where quality is necessary.

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Aramid fibre (Kevlar) combines a very high breaking strength with a very low elasticity. A number of other fibres with names like Vectran, Spectra and Dyneema are light and often have higher breaking strengths than steel! These ropes are expensive and are still used mostly on racing yachts.

CLOVE HITCH

The clove hitch is rather easy to make (1-4). You can add as many half hitches as you like, but always do the turns in the same direction. The hitch can be made mirrored and you may also make the turns in either direction relative to whatever you are making the knot on. You know that the knot is made properly when the working end and the standing part (the static part of the line) run in parallel in opposite directions under the locking turn. This knot is very basic and you should be able to tie it in both directions, starting the turn over or under the object on which you are making the knot.

The clove hitch (5) is used a lot for mooring lines and fenders.

A round turn with two half hitches (6) should be used more often. Unlike the bowline (Fig.5), this knot may be untied under load. You make the clove hitch itself on the standing part of the line. You can make one or more complete turns around the pile in order to increase friction and to distribute the load better.

When you approach a pier, the fenders may be made fast with a clove hitch (7) and even made with a slip knot (Fig.27). If the fenders are to be fixed for longer periods, it may be wiser to use a round turn with two half hitches (8). You can then be sure that the knot won’t untie itself, thus avoiding losing a fender. The clove hitch alone may become untied if it is not tightened well from time to time.

BOWLINE

The bowline is used when you want a fixed eye on, for example, a mooring line, or for tying sheets to a sail. The bowline is a very reliable knot that can be used for many purposes. You should learn to tie this knot blindfolded!

Many find the knot hard to learn. Imagine, for example, the small loop as a pond from which a sea snake (the working end) ascends and twirls itself around a tree (the standing part) and then slides back into the water following its body. (Make the first loop in exactly the same manner all the time. This makes the knot easier to learn.)

The bowline can also be used to join two lines that are to be heavily loaded, where you want to be sure that you will be able to undo the knot afterwards. This is often a better solution than using a double sheet bend (Fig.8) or a reef knot (Fig.9). The latter should never be used for such purposes!

You can secure the bowline as shown (4) or make a stopper knot (Fig.10) if you want to be absolutely sure that it won’t come undone (normally it does not). You may also make the knot with a slip knot as shown in order to be able to undo it quickly. Always check that the working end protrudes an inch or two from the small loop to avoid the knot untying itself.

SHEET BEND

The sheet bend (1-2) is normally used to attach ensigns to flag lines or join two ropes with equal diameters (if not use the double sheet bend). To make a sheet bend, fold the end of the first line (blue) back on itself to form a loop if it doesn’t have a fixed eye. Pass the working end of the other line (shown in red) through and around this loop (1), and then tuck it under itself but over the blue loop (2).

You make a double sheet bend (3) by leading the red working part once more around the loop and then taking it under itself but over the blue loop. Pull the knot tight. It is wise to use the double sheet bend most of the time, as it will almost never come loose.

The sheet bend can’t be untied under load and it can be rather difficult to untie when relieved of the load.

You may join two lines by a sheet bend (4) but, if they will be heavily loaded, it is recommended that you use two bowlines tied ‘inside each other’ (Fig.6), as the bowline is far easier to untie when relieved of the load. If it isn’t necessary to untie the ropes (permanent join), a double sheet bend (5) can be a good solution.

REEF KNOT

The reef knot (or square knot) should only be used as a binding knot, for example to tie up sails on a boom. The well-known shoelace knot (4) is actually a reef knot with two slip knots as shown.

The reef knot can’t be untied under load but is easy to untie when relieved of the load.

It should never be used to join two lines that will be subject to any load, as it can easily come undone.

However, the knot can be used to join two lines of equal diameter that will be subject to very small loads.

STOPPER KNOTS

Stopper knots are used, for example, to prevent a sheet from slipping out of the sheet block on deck. The figure of eight knot (1) is the most commonly used stopper knot. The double (or multiple) overhand knot (2) is also much used, but this knot might be more difficult to undo than the figure of eight knot. It is always important to make sure that a knot can be undone easily when required, while...