Evans | Great Cycle Routes: The North and South Downs | E-Book | www.sack.de
E-Book

E-Book, Englisch, 128 Seiten

Evans Great Cycle Routes: The North and South Downs


1. Auflage 2011
ISBN: 978-1-84797-362-7
Verlag: Crowood
Format: EPUB
Kopierschutz: 6 - ePub Watermark

E-Book, Englisch, 128 Seiten

ISBN: 978-1-84797-362-7
Verlag: Crowood
Format: EPUB
Kopierschutz: 6 - ePub Watermark



This book contains routes for both off and on road enthusiasts, graded for length and level of difficulty. Each route includes a detailed map, points of interest and refreshment stops, and a lively description of the terrain to be encountered. All cyclists, young or old, mountain biker or tourer, will find something to suit them. All those who cycle south of London will enjoy this book. The entire South Downs way, between Petersfield and Eastbourne, is covered in 3 rides, and the North Downs routes will take the cyclist along the southern line of the M25 from Surrey into Kent.

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Weitere Infos & Material


Introduction


RIDE INFORMATION


Area: Where the ride is located.

OS Map: The relevant OS Landranger 1:50 000 map for the route.

Route: Waymarks from start to finish, with OS grid reference numbers. All of the rides in this book bar the South Downs Way are circular, making it possible to start at a number of locations.

Nearest BR Stations: Most of the routes are accessible from a railway station. Owing to the market-led policies of British Rail which have become extremely bike-unfriendly, it is necessary to check restrictions and costs before you start and board a train.

Approx Length: In miles and kilometres. There should always be some allowance for getting lost or altering the route.

Time: This is very difficult to assess, and will depend on factors such as whether the tracks are dry, how many hills have to be climbed, how fast you ride, and how many pubs and places of interest there are en route.

Rating: An ‘Easy’ ride should be accessible for riders of all abilities, excluding sub-teenage children; a ‘Moderate’ ride may prove harder in terms of terrain, length, hills, churning those pedals, and possibly navigation; a ‘Hard’ ride is best suited to experienced offroad riders with a high level of commitment. However these ratings can be changed by the weather – for instance an ‘Easy’ ride in very dry weather may become a ‘Hard’ ride when the tracks are churned to mud.

Places to Visit / Top Pubs: Virtually all of these rides feature a number of possible pub stops. I have also indicated cafes and other facilities to enjoy along the route.

Stick to the rules, and you won’t get into trouble!

COMMON SENSE OFFROAD


The tracks and trails used for offroad cycling must be shared. The basic problem for mountain bikers is that bikes are generally so much faster than walkers and horse-riders. That is the principal factor which causes antagonism, but why hurry? Why not take it easy and enjoy the ride? Stick to the following common sense rules, and everyone should be happy.

Be safe! Don’t ride into danger.

1.    Stay on public bridleways, byways or roads. Never ride on footpaths. Cycling on private tracks or open ground is not usually allowed without permission from the land owner. Always moderate your speed.

2.    When you ride offroad, the bridleways and byways are classified as ‘Highways’. This means the Highway Code applies, and you can be prosecuted for riding dangerously, especially if you are involved in an accident. Any form of racing is illegal on a public highway, unless it is a specially organized event and permission has been obtained. Byways may also be shared with motorized vehicles. They should give way to cyclists, but as when meeting any vehicle, it is necessary to play safe.

3.    Learn how to prevent skids and ride with control to help prevent erosion, especially in the wet. If it is very wet, it is much better to push or carry your bike. Going off the official tracks and trails can cause unnecessary erosion, as well as damaging plant and animal environments.

4.    When you meet other people offroad and in the countryside, be courteous and considerate. Always slow right down and give way to both walkers and horse-riders, even if it means dismounting and lifting your bike out of the way. Bikes are almost silent, so give warning of your approach in as polite a manner as possible. The British Horse Society would like you to ‘Hail a Horse’; we think the very best policy is to come to a complete halt until the animals have passed you by. If you are riding in a group, all go to one side of the track. Take particular care when you ride past children – you may not worry them, but you may terrorize/infuriate their parents.

5.    Make sure your bike is safe to ride, and won’t let you down in the middle of nowhere on a fast downhill – learn basic maintenance and take essential spares. In the interests of safety take drink and food, and wear suitable clothing for the weather conditions and length of ride. It is wise to wear a helmet, putting a layer of polystyrene between your cranium and any hard object in the unlikely event of a bad fall particularly on-road.

6.    To avoid getting lost, it is always wise to carry a compass and relevant map such as the OS 1:50, 000 Landranger series. You should know where you are, and have the ability to re-plan the route and cut the ride short.

7.    Follow the Country Code. Leave nothing behind – no litter, no orange peel, the minimum of noise, no bad memories for yourself or for others, and if possible not even a sign of your wheeltracks. Always shut gates behind you (unless they should obviously be left open). Don’t blast through fields of cows or sheep – neither they nor the farmer will like it. If you ride with a dog for a companion, be sure to keep it under control.

Ride together, but give way to walkers.

USE THAT MAP!


Unless the route is very easy or you know it well, you should never ride without a map, never ride without a compass. Once you get the hang of it, using them is easy and will ensure you know where you’re heading.

A map is a diagram which shows the features of an area of land such as mountains, hills, woods, rivers, railways, roads, tracks, towns and buildings. All these and many other features are shown by special signs that map readers can understand. There is always a table on the map which explains the signs. On a 1:50, 000 map (OS Landranger) 1cm on the map equals 50,000cm on the ground; this equals 2cm for every kilometre, or 1 1/4 in per mile.

THE GRID SYSTEM: Maps are covered by a grid of numbered horizontal and vertical grid lines. The grid is used to find an exact place on a map. To find a grid reference position you read the first three numbers off the vertical grid line which is called the Eastings line. You then read the next three numbers off the horizontal Northings grid line. Where they meet is where you want to be.

CONTOURS: Contours are lines on a map which join areas that are the same height above sea level (in metres). The difference in height between the contour lines is called the vertical height. The closer the lines are the steeper the hill will be. Contour lines are spaced at 10m intervals on 1:50, 000 Landranger maps, and at 5m intervals on 1:25, 000 Outdoor Leisure maps.

It is generally best to arrange your ride so the climbs are short and steep and the descents are long and fast; it is also best to get major climbs out of the way early on the ride. Sometimes it is quite difficult to know if you will be going up or down; a river or stream on the map is a sure sign of dropping down to a valley, but you can also work it out by looking at the contour line height numbers, as the top of the number is always uphill.

Do you know where you’re going.

USING A COMPASS: A compass is a valuable aid to finding your way. The most popular style is the Swedish-made Silva on which most modern hiking (equally suitable for biking) compasses are based. It is low in price, light, very tough, and easy to use.

The compass should be carried on a lanyard at all times; in bad visibility it may be the only means you have of finding the way. The compass needle always points to Magnetic North, but keep it away from close contact with any metallic object to which it might be sensitive. Knowing that the needle points North, you can always follow a course in the direction you wish to go. The vertical grid lines on a map point to Grid North; this may be a few degrees different from Magnetic North, but the difference is very small.

OFFROAD WITH KIDS


Why not take the kids with you? With a little care the whole family can have a great day out, and when the kids are too big for a child seat you can put them in the saddle and still stay in control.

There’s no point in taking children cycling on-road or offroad if they don’t enjoy it, because then you won’t enjoy it. Always follow the three golden rules:

1. Make sure they’re comfortable.

2. Keep them amused.

3. Don’t bite off more than you can chew.

COMFORT: For a child up to around four years of age, go for the best rear-mounted child seat you can find. It must obviously be secure on the bike, with a high back and sides to help protect its occupant if you should fall, deep footwells to protect the feet, and a full harness to hold the child firmly in; a safety bar for the child to grip on to is also a worthwhile extra. Ideally, the seat should also be quick and easy to put on and take off your bike, so when you ride alone the seat doesn’t have to go with you.

It’s a good idea to get children used to wearing helmets as early as possible, but with very...



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