Moritz / Haake Engineering of Sport 6

Volume 2: Developments for Disciplines
1. Auflage 2010
ISBN: 978-0-387-46051-2
Verlag: Springer
Format: PDF
Kopierschutz: 1 - PDF Watermark

E-Book, Englisch, 330 Seiten

This proceedings volume of the ISEA 2006 examines sports engineering, an interdisciplinary subject which encompasses and integrates not only sports science and engineering but also biomechanics, physiology and anatomy, and motion physics. This is the first title of its kind in the emerging field of sports technology.

Autoren/Hrsg.

Haake, Steve

Moritz, Eckehard

Inhaltsverzeichnis

1;Preface;5
2;Table of Contents;7
3;Contributors;13
4;1 Biomechanics;41
4.1;Synopsis of Current Developments: Biomechanics;42
4.1.1;Introduction;42
4.1.2;Synopsis of Submitted Papers;42
4.1.3;Synopsis of Related Activities;43
4.2;Influence of Footwear on In-Shoe Loading for Different Soil Densities
;44
4.2.1;1 Introduction;44
4.2.2;2 Methods;45
4.2.2.1;2.1 Subjects and Conditions;45
4.2.2.2;2.2 Data Collection;46
4.2.2.3;2.3 Data Analysis;46
4.2.3;3 Results;46
4.2.3.1;3.1 Comparison of In-Shoe Forces;46
4.2.3.2;3.2 Comparison of In-Shoe Loading with Surface Pressures;48
4.2.4;4 Discussion;48
4.2.4.1;4.1 In-Shoe Forces for Different Surface Densities;48
4.2.4.2;4.2 In-Shoe Forces for Different Footwear Conditions;48
4.2.4.3;4.3 Comparison of In-Shoe Forces and Loading Within the Surface;49
4.2.5;5 Conclusion;49
4.2.6;References;49
4.3;Validation of a Full-Body Computer Simulation of the Golf Drive for Clubs of Differing Length
;50
4.3.1;1 Introduction
;50
4.3.2;2 Methods;51
4.3.2.1;2.1 Experimental Procedures;51
4.3.2.2;2.2 Modelling Techniques;52
4.3.3;3 Results;52
4.3.3.1;3.1 Validation;52
4.3.3.2;3.2 Muscle Force Production;53
4.3.4;4 Discussion;54
4.3.5;Acknowledgements;55
4.3.6;References;55
4.4;Measurement of Hand Palm Pressures in "La Pelota Vasca" Game
;56
4.4.1;1 Introduction;56
4.4.2;2 Methods;57
4.4.3;3 Results;59
4.4.4;4 Discussion and Conclusion;60
4.4.5;Acknowledgements;61
4.4.6;References;61
4.5;Analysis of the Relationship Between Mechanical Properties and Players' Perception of the Balls in a Spanish Traditional Sport: "La Pilota Valenciana"
;62
4.5.1;1 Introduction;62
4.5.2;2 Material and Methods;64
4.5.3;3 Results;65
4.5.4;4 Discussion and Conclusion;66
4.5.5;Acknowledgements;67
4.5.6;References;67
4.6;Biomechanical Analysis of Running on Third Generation Artificial Soccer Turf
;68
4.6.1;1 Introduction;68
4.6.2;2 Methods;69
4.6.2.1;2.1 Subjects;69
4.6.2.2;2.2 Track;69
4.6.2.3;2.3 Protocol;70
4.6.2.4;2.4 Data Analysis;70
4.6.3;3 Results;71
4.6.3.1;3.1 Pitch Characteristics;71
4.6.3.2;3.2 Running Trials;71
4.6.4;4 Discussion;72
4.6.5;5 Conclusions;73
4.6.6;Acknowledgements;73
4.6.7;References;73
4.7;Evaluation of Energy Expenditure Rate During Continuous Upper Body Cyclic Exercise
;74
4.7.1;1 Introduction;74
4.7.2;2 Methodology;75
4.7.2.1;2.1 Procedure;76
4.7.2.2;2.2 Experimental Equipment and Measurements;76
4.7.3;3 Results;77
4.7.4;4 Discussion;78
4.7.5;5 Conclusions;79
4.7.6;References;79
5;2 Measurement Techniques;80
5.1;Synopsis of Current Developments: Measurement Techniques
;81
5.2;Use of the Infrared Based Motion Capture System AS 200 in Sport Science
;83
5.2.1;1 Introduction;83
5.2.2;2 Short Description of the AS 200;84
5.2.3;3 Evaluation of the AS 200;84
5.2.4;4 First Application - Fist Punch Gyaku-Zuki;86
5.2.5;5 Second Application - Swim Bench;87
5.2.6;6 General Discussion and Outlook;88
5.2.7;References;88
5.3;Employing Modern Elements of Vehicle Navigation for Integrated Motion Measurement in Sport
;89
5.3.1;1 Introduction;89
5.3.2;2 Methodological Basis;90
5.3.2.1;2.1 Kinematical Model- The Motion of Rigid Bodies;90
5.3.2.2;2.2 Navigation Sensors;91
5.3.2.3;2.3 Kalman Filter and System Integration;92
5.3.3;3 Approaches to Applications;93
5.3.4;4 Conclusions;94
5.3.5;References;94
5.4;Time-Resolved Measurements of Grip Force During a Golf Shot
;95
5.4.1;I Introduction;95
5.4.2;2 Methods;95
5.4.3;3 Results;97
5.4.4;4 Conclusion;99
5.4.5;Refere nces;100
5.5;Pacing Lights - a New Approach to Controlling Speed in the Gait Laboratory
;101
5.5.1;1 Control of Speed;101
5.5.2;2 Pacing Lights;102
5.5.2.1;2. I System Design;102
5.5.3;3 Validation;103
5.5.3.1;3.1 Methods;103
5.5.3.2;3.2 Results;103
5.5.3.3;3.2 Discussion;103
5.5.4;4 Other Applications;105
5.5.5;5 Conclusions;105
5.5.6;References;105
5.6;Measuring Equine Ground Reaction Forces;106
5.6.1;Introduction;106
5.6.2;Initial Design and Test;107
5.6.3;The Final Design;107
5.6.4;Compression Measurement;107
5.6.5;Shear Measurement;108
5.6.6;Laboratory Calibration;108
5.6.7;Attachment to the Horse;109
5.6.8;Validation;109
5.6.9;Continuous Recording;110
5.6.10;Discussion and Conclusions;110
5.6.11;Acknowledgements;111
5.6.12;References;111
5.7;Examination of a Swimming Dummy's Flow Field Using Laser Doppler Velocimetry
;112
5.7.1;1 Introduction;112
5.7.2;2 Methods;113
5.7.3;3 Results;115
5.7.4;4 Discussion;116
5.7.5;References;117
5.8;Head Accelerations During Soccer Heading;118
5.8.1;1 Background;118
5.8.2;2 Methods;119
5.8.3;3 Results;121
5.8.4;4 Discussion and Conclusions;122
5.8.5;References;123
5.9;A New Six Component Dynamometer for Measuring Ground Reaction Forces in Alpine Skiing
;124
5.9.1;1 Introduction;124
5.9.2;2 Method;124
5.9.2.1;2.1 Collecting Information;125
5.9.2.2;2.2 Designing Alternative Constructions;125
5.9.3;3 Results;126
5.9.3.1;3.1 Binding Adapter;126
5.9.3.2;3.2 Load Cell;127
5.9.3.3;3.3 Boot Sole Adapter;128
5.9.3.4;3.4 Measuring Range and Data Transmission;128
5.9.4;4 Discussion;128
5.9.5;References;129
5.10;Measurement of Draw-Length Alterations in the Final Pull in Archery
;130
5.10.1;1 Introduction;130
5.10.2;2 Methods;132
5.10.3;3 Results and Discussion;133
5.10.4;4 Conclusion;135
5.10.5;Acknowledgement;135
5.10.6;References;135
5.11;Power Measurement During Rowing;136
5.11.1;1 Introduction;136
5.11.2;2 Current Practice;136
5.11.3;3 Experimental Methods;137
5.11.4;4 Results;138
5.11.5;5 Discussion;140
5.11.6;6 Conclusions;141
5.11.7;References;141
6;3 Modelling Equipment;142
6.1;Synopsis of Current Developments: Modelling Equipment
;143
6.1.1;Contributions and Topics: An Overview;143
6.1.2;Future Development Potential
;144
6.2;Large Deflections during Bounce of Inflated Balls;145
6.2.1;1 Introduction;145
6.2.2;2 Properties of Deformed Thin-Walled Spherical Shell;146
6.2.3;Normal Force at Contact Surface;148
6.2.3.1;3.1 Gas Force Acting over Contact Area;148
6.2.3.2;3.2 Momentum Flux Force and Couple;148
6.2.4;References;150
6.3;Finite Element Simulation of Ice Axe Pick Impact on a Semi-Rigid Surface
;151
6.3.1;1 Introduction;151
6.3.2;2 Literature Review;152
6.3.3;3 Finite Element Model;153
6.3.4;4 Finite Element Results;154
6.3.5;5 Discussion of Results;154
6.3.6;6 Conclusions;156
6.3.7;References;156
6.4;Optimization of the Handbike's Drive Concept - Mathematical Approach
;157
6.4.1;1 Introduction;157
6.4.2;2 Study Target;158
6.4.3;3 Method;158
6.4.3.1;3.1 Simulation Model;158
6.4.3.2;3.2 Model Validation;160
6.4.4;4 Results;160
6.4.5;4 Discussion;161
6.4.6;References;161
6.5;Using CFD to Understand the Effects of Seam Geometry on Soccer Ball Aerodynamics
;162
6.5.1;1 Introduction;162
6.5.2;2 Wind Tunnel Tests;163
6.5.3;3 CFD Studies;164
6.5.3.1;3.1 Model Set-Up;164
6.5.3.2;3.2 Ball A;164
6.5.3.3;3.3 Parametric Study;166
6.5.4;4 Conclusions;166
6.5.5;5 Acknowledgements;167
6.5.6;References;167
6.6;Optimization of a Recurve Bow Riser Using Evolutionary Computing
;168
6.6.1;1 Introduction
;168
6.6.2;2 Methods;169
6.6.2.1;2.1 Analysis of the Loads;169
6.6.2.2;2.2 Static Structural Analysis of the Riser RADIAN;170
6.6.2.3;2.3 Design of a Parametric CAD Model of a Riser;170
6.6.2.4;2.4 Optimization of the CAD Model Parameters for Mass and Stiffness;170
6.6.3;3 Results;172
6.6.4;4 Conclusions;173
6.6.5;Acknowledgments;173
6.6.6;References;173
6.7;A Preliminary Investigation into Racing Motorcycle Aerodynamics
;174
6.7.1;1 Introduction;174
6.7.2;2 Motorcycle Aerodynamics;175
6.7.2.1;2.1 Basic Forces: Drag, Lift and Side Force;175
6.7.3;3 Testing Rig;176
6.7.4;4 Wake Analyses;177
6.7.5;5 Flow Visualisation;178
6.7.6;6 Conclusion;178
6.7.7;References;179
6.8;A Comparison of Aerodynamic Drag of a Rugby Ball Using EFD and CFD
;180
6.8.1;1 Introduction;180
6.8.2;2 Experimental Measurements;180
6.8.3;3 CFD Modelling Procedures;181
6.8.4;4 Results and Discussion;182
6.8.4.1;4.1 Experimental Results;182
6.8.4.2;4.2 Computational Results;183
6.8.5;5 Conclusions;184
6.8.6;6 Acknowledgments;185
6.8.7;References;185
7;4 Modelling Systems;186
7.1;Synopsis of Current Developments: Modelling Systems;187
7.2;Relating Grip Characteristics to the Dynamic Response of Tennis Racquets
;189
7.2.1;1 Introduction;189
7.2.2;2 Methodology;190
7.2.3;3 Results and Discussion;191
7.2.4;4 Conclusion;194
7.2.5;References;194
7.3;Modelling the 'run-out' Throw in Cricket;195
7.3.1;1 Introduction;195
7.3.2;2 Methods;196
7.3.2.1;2.1 Mathematical Model;196
7.3.2.2;2.2 Experimental Details;197
7.3.3;3 Results and Discussion;198
7.3.3.1;3.1 Variation of Release Parameters with Throwing Distance;198
7.3.3.2;3.2 Drag and Lift Coefficients;198
7.3.4;4 Conclusions;200
7.3.5;Acknowledgements;200
7.3.6;References;200
7.4;Simulation Analysis of Maneuver in Skydiving;201
7.4.1;1 Introduction;201
7.4.2;2 Outline of the Simulation Method of Skydiving;201
7.4.3;3 Derivation of the Velocity Control Method in 4 Directions;202
7.4.3.1;3.1 Derivation of Linear Relation Between Displacements of Selected Joint Angles and Velocities
;202
7.4.3.2;3.2 Derivation of Transfer Matrix and Control Method;205
7.4.4;4 Simulation Results of Tracking Control;205
7.4.5;5 Conclusions;206
7.4.6;References;206
7.5;The Measurement of Applied Pressure at Depth with Two Natural Soil Surfaces at Different Densities
;207
7.5.1;1 Introduction;207
7.5.2;2 Materials and Methods;208
7.5.2.1;2.1 Surface Preparation and Characterization;208
7.5.2.2;2.2 Measurement of Soil Loading and Unloading;209
7.5.2.3;2.3 Subject and Experiment Conditions;209
7.5.3;3 Results;209
7.5.3.1;3.1 Maximum Soil Pressure;209
7.5.3.2;3.2 Loading and Unloading of the Surface;211
7.5.4;4 Discussion;211
7.5.5;5 Conclusion;212
7.5.6;References;212
7.6;Methods of Simulation and Manipulation for the Evaluation of Figure Skating Jumps
;213
7.6.1;1 Introduction;213
7.6.2;2 Modelling;213
7.6.2.1;2.1 Human Model DYNAMICUS;214
7.6.2.2;2.2 Model Adaptation for Application in Figure Skating Simulation;214
7.6.3;3 Simulation Process;215
7.6.3.1;3.1 Preprocessing;215
7.6.3.2;3.2 Dynamic Tracking and Determination of Initial Conditions of Free Flight
;215
7.6.3.3;3.3 Results and Analyze;215
7.6.3.4;3.4 Manipulation;216
7.6.4;4 Analysis Results;216
7.6.4.1;4.1 The Angle Between the Angular Momentum and the Angular Velocity in a Quadruple Salchow
;216
7.6.4.2;4.2 Manipulation of a Quadruple Toe Loop;217
7.6.5;5 Conclusion;218
7.6.6;References;218
7.7;Computer-Aided Football Training: Exploiting Advances in Distributed Tactical Operations Research
;219
7.7.1;1 Introduction;219
7.7.2;2 Professional Football Training: Challenges and Computer Aids;219
7.7.3;3 Distributed Tactical Operations;220
7.7.3.1;3.1 Reconstruction and Exploration;221
7.7.3.2;3.2 The MIND Framework;221
7.7.4;4. Adapting R&E to Football: Possibilities and Challenges;221
7.7.5;5. Discussion;224
7.7.6;References;224
8;5 Modelling and Measurement Equipment in Skiing;225
8.1;Synopsis of Current Developments: Modelling and Measurement Equipment in Skiing
;226
8.1.1;Modelling the Ski Turn and Ski Behaviour;226
8.1.2;Development of Measurement Equipment for Ski and Snowboarding Research
;227
8.2;Modeling of the Ski-Snow Contact for a Carved Turn;228
8.2.1;1 Introduction;228
8.2.2;2 Method;229
8.2.2.1;2.1 The Sledge and the Skis;229
8.2.2.2;2.2 Ski-Snow Contact;229
8.2.2.3;2.3 Data Collection;231
8.2.2.4;2.3 Validation ofthe Simulation;232
8.2.3;3 Results;232
8.2.4;4 Discussion;232
8.2.5;Acknowledgment;233
8.2.6;References;233
8.3;Improvements of Simulating Approach for Ski Turn;234
8.3.1;1 Introduction;234
8.3.2;2 Ski Control;235
8.3.2.1;2.1 Skier's Model and Drawing of Skier's Posture;235
8.3.2.2;2.2 Quantitative Ski Control;236
8.3.3;3 Ski Turn;236
8.3.3.1;3.1 Model of Ski and Snow Surface;236
8.3.3.2;3.2 Forces and Moments Acting on Ski;237
8.3.3.3;3.3 Coupled Motion of Ski and Snow Surface;237
8.3.3.4;3.4 Estimation of Ski Turn;238
8.3.4;4 Conclusions;239
8.3.5;Acknowledgment;239
8.3.6;References;239
8.4;Influence of Ski Bending Stiffness on the Turning Radius of Alpine Skis at Different Edging Angles and Velocities
;240
8.4.1;1 Introduction
;240
8.4.2;2 Method;241
8.4.2.1;2.1 Model Description;241
8.4.2.2;2.2 Simulations with Varied Bending Stiffness;242
8.4.3;3 Results and Discussion;243
8.4.4;Acknowledgement;245
8.4.5;References;245
8.5;Study on Modification of Ski Referring Characteristic of Ski Turn (Change of Width and Shoe Center)
;246
8.5.1;1 Introduction;246
8.5.2;2 Approach for Modification of Skis;247
8.5.2.1;2.1 Outline of Numerical Approach for Ski Turn;247
8.5.2.2;2.2 Sensitivity Analysis;248
8.5.2.3;2.3 Flow Chart of Modification of Skis;249
8.5.3;3 Examples for Modification of Skis;249
8.5.3.1;3.1 Skis Used in Modification;249
8.5.3.2;3.2 Assumptions Adopted in Ski Turn Simulation;249
8.5.3.3;3.3 Results for Modification of Skis;250
8.5.4;4 Conclusions;251
8.5.5;Acknowledgment;251
8.5.6;References;251
8.6;A Unified, Custom-built Measuring System for a Ski Athlete
;252
8.6.1;1 Purpose of the Research; Equipment;252
8.6.1.1;1.1 Redesigned Load Cells and Strain Amplifiers;253
8.6.1.2;1.2 "ShapeSnakes" - a New Kind of Goniometer;253
8.6.1.3;1.3 Absolute Angle of Backpack;255
8.6.1.4;1.4 Foot-shaped FSA Pressure Sensors;255
8.6.1.5;1.5 Software to Display the Acquired Data in a Virtual 3D World;256
8.6.2;2 Work in Progress, Dec 2005;257
8.6.3;References;257
8.7;Analysis of Binding Loads in Snowboarding from Field Data Acquisition
;258
8.7.1;1 Introduction;258
8.7.2;2 Materials and Methods;258
8.7.2.1;2.1 Instrumentation;258
8.7.2.2;2.2 Test Protocol;259
8.7.2.3;2.3 Data Analysis;259
8.7.3;3 Results and Discussion;263
8.7.4;4 Conclusions;263
8.7.5;References;263
9;6 Climbing - Pulley Mechanics and Taping;264
9.1;Synopsis of Climbing- Pulley Mechanics and Taping;265
9.2;Biomechanical Properties of the A2 Pulley in Rock Climbers
;267
9.2.1;1 Introduction;267
9.2.2;2 Properties of the A2 pulley;269
9.2.3;3 Friction between flexor tendons and pulleys;270
9.2.4;4 References;272
9.3;Biomechanics of Finger Pulleys during Climbing;273
9.3.1;1 Introduction;273
9.3.2;2 Methodology;274
9.3.3;3 Results;276
9.3.4;4 Conclusion;277
9.3.5;References;278
9.4;Biomechanical Model for the Determination of the Forces acting on the Pulley System
;279
9.4.1;1 Introduction;279
9.4.2;2 Methods;280
9.4.3;3 Results;281
9.4.4;4 Discussion;284
9.4.5;References;284
9.5;Impact of "Taping" after Finger Flexor Tendon Pulley Ruptures in Rock Climbers
;285
9.5.1;1 Introduction;285
9.5.2;2 Methods;286
9.5.3;3 Results;288
9.5.4;4 Discussion;289
9.5.5;References;290
9.6;Mechanical Influence of Finger Taping in Sport Climbing
;291
9.6.1;1 Introduction;291
9.6.2;2 Methods;292
9.6.3;3 Results;293
9.6.3.1;3.1 Effect of Taping on Finger Angles;293
9.6.3.2;3.2 Changes in Pulley Force;295
9.6.4;4 Discussion;295
9.6.5;5 Conclusions;296
9.6.6;References;296
10;7 Climbing - Technical Aspects of Training and Performance
;297
10.1;Synopsis of Climbing- Technical Aspects of Training and Performance
;298
10.2;Chronic Exertional Compartment Syndrome of Forearm Flexor Muscles in Rock Climbers - Evaluation of Physiological Standard Pressures
;300
10.2.1;1 Introduction;300
10.2.2;2 Methods;301
10.2.3;3 Results;302
10.2.4;4 Discussion;302
10.2.5;References;304
10.3;Relation Between Specific Force Tests and Chained Degree in High Level Sport Climbers
;306
10.3.1;1 Introduction;306
10.3.2;2 Objectives;306
10.3.3;3 Method;307
10.3.3.1;3.1 Subjects;307
10.3.3.2;3.2 Testing;307
10.3.4;4 Results;308
10.3.5;5 Discussions;310
10.3.6;6 Conclusions;311
10.3.7;References;311
10.4;Dynamic Eccentric-Concentric Strength Training of the Finger Flexors to Improve Rock Climbing Performance
;312
10.4.1;1 Introduction;312
10.4.2;2 Material and Methods;313
10.4.3;3 Results;314
10.4.4;4 Discussion;316
10.4.5;References;317
10.5;Strength Measurement and Clinical Outcome after Conservatively Treated Pulley Ruptures in Climbers
;318
10.5.1;1 Introduction;318
10.5.2;2 Methods;319
10.5.3;3 Results;319
10.5.4;4 Discussion;320
10.5.5;References;321
10.6;Evolvement and Experimentation of a New Interval Method For Strength Endurance Development
;322
10.6.1;Abstract;322
10.6.2;1 Introduction;322
10.6.3;2 Methods;323
10.6.3.1;2.1 Tests;323
10.6.4;3 Results;324
10.6.5;4 Discussion;324
10.6.5.1;4.1 Problems of intensity control and modeling of the training process in climbing
;325
10.6.5.2;4.2 Correlation between the sports performance and its factors;326
10.6.6;5 Conclusion;327
10.6.7;References;327
11;8 Testing, Prototyping, Benchmarking;328
11.1;Synopsis of Current Developments: Testing, Prototyping and Benchmarking
;329
11.1.1;Introduction;329
11.1.2;Complexity of Testing Products;329
11.1.3;Key Aspects to Develop Products;329
11.1.4;Prototyping for Benchmarking and Optimization;330
11.1.5;Conclusion and Perspectives;330
11.2;Test Methods in the Development of Sports Equipment;331
11.2.1;1 Introduction;331
11.2.2;2 Classification of Test Methods;332
11.2.2.1;2.1 Subjective Tests;332
11.2.2.2;2.2 Biomechanical Tests;333
11.2.2.3;2.3 Mechanical Tests;334
11.2.3;3 Comparison of Test Methods;335
11.2.4;4 Conclusion;336
11.3;The Design and Implementation of a Crash Pad Evaluation System for Speed Skating
;337
11.3.1;1 Introduction;337
11.3.2;2 Design of the Crash Mat Testing System;338
11.3.2.1;2.1 Functionality;338
11.3.2.2;2.2 Environment;339
11.3.3;3 Design Concepts;340
11.3.3.1;3.1 Barrel Guidance Function;340
11.3.3.2;3.2 Barrel Configuration;340
11.3.3.3;3.3 Sensor Configuration;341
11.3.4;4 Results of Impact Testing;341
11.3.5;5 Conclusions;342
11.3.6;Acknowledgements;342
11.3.7;References;342
11.4;Optimization of the Handbike's Drive Concept Experimental Approach ;343
11.4.1;1 Introduction;343
11.4.2;2 Study Target;344
11.4.3;3 Method
;345
11.4.4;4 Results;346
11.4.5;Acknowledgements;347
11.4.6;References;347
11.5;Sports Surfaces - Impact Assessment Tools;349
11.5.1;1 Introduction;349
11.5.2;2 Test Methods;350
11.5.2.1;2.1 Current Industry Impact Test Methods;350
11.5.2.2;2.2 Alternative Impact Test Methods;350
11.5.3;3 Results of Device Comparison;351
11.5.4;4 Conclusions;354
11.5.5;References;354
12;Author index;355
13;Subject Index;357

Leseproben

"6 Climbing - Pulley Mechanics and Taping (p. 233-234)

Synopsis of Climbing- Pulley Mechanics and Taping

Franz Konstantin Fuss

Division of Bioengineering. School of Chemical and Biomedical Engineering, and SPERT (Sports Engineering Research Team). RioMcdical Engineering Research Centre, Nanyang Technological University. Singapore Finger pulleys arc fibrous sheaths. which tic the finger flexor tendons to the bone by avoiding the bowstringing effect. The latter is a separation of the tendons from the bone, which usually occurs after pulley rupture. Although bowstringing would lengthen the moment arm at the finger joints, it increases the relative amount of muscle shortening beyond the limit of force production. Finger pulleys arc divided into weaker cruciatc and stronger annular pulleys. which arc aligned in alternative sequence. The most important pulleys, prone to injuries are: A2 at the proximal phalanx. A3 at the proximal interphalangeal joint, and A4 at the middle phalanx. Finger pulley injuries occur almost exclusively in sport climbing and account for about 45% of finger injuries and about 20X, of all climbing injuries and overuse syndromes. Severe bowstringing occurs only if more than one annular pulley is ruptured. which requires surgical treatment.

Taping. adhesive bandages at finger segments and joints, are said to exert a supportive effect to the pulleys in terms of load sharing. Conventional tape is arranged as circular or figurc-x shaped loops. (sonst noch ctwas wichtiges uber taping"?"). Current research on pulley mechanics and taping extends to

I) accurate measurement of friction between tendons and pulleys.
2) biomechanical influence of taping.
3) biorncchanical model of the pulley loop in axial and side views and its application to surgical pulley replacement.
4) finite clement model of pulleys in side view. with 19 fibres per pulley
5) modelling of pulley ruptures. and
6) development of new taping techniques. especially for injured climbers. and their biomcchanical evaluation

Higher friction between tendons and pulleys would benefit the climber. as this saves muscle force and delays fatiguing. The direct influence of taping on load sharing between tape and pulley is small. about 10%: yet there is an indirect influence. as taping reduces flexion of the proximal interphalangeal joint and thus lowers the load on the pulleys. Exact positioning of a pulley graft during replacement surgery is critical and affects the success of the treatment; biomechanical models can give hints for graft placement, however. they depend on exact input data. Finite clement models of pulleys provide the exact force distribution over the pulley fibres. with peak forces in the mid- and lateral fibres in extended and flexed fingers respectively, Pulley"