E-Book, Englisch, 187 Seiten, Web PDF
Open University / Bearman Waves, Tides and Shallow-Water Processes
1. Auflage 2013
ISBN: 978-1-4832-9271-7
Verlag: Elsevier Science & Techn.
Format: PDF
Kopierschutz: 1 - PDF Watermark
Waves, Tides and Shallow-Water Processes
E-Book, Englisch, 187 Seiten, Web PDF
ISBN: 978-1-4832-9271-7
Verlag: Elsevier Science & Techn.
Format: PDF
Kopierschutz: 1 - PDF Watermark
The text begins by describing waves, their measurement and characteristics, their behaviour in shallow water, and unusual waves. Next, mainly theoretical aspects are considered of sediment movement and deposition by currents, before discussing wave action in the littoral zone, tidal current action on tidal flat and in estuaries, and the interaction of waves, tides, and river flow in deltas. Finally, we examine shelf-sea processes, including an outline of their mineral resources.
Autoren/Hrsg.
Weitere Infos & Material
1;Front Cover;1
2;Waves, Tides and Shallow-Water Processes;4
3;Copyright Page;5
4;Table of Contents;6
5;ABOUT THIS VOLUME;9
6;CHAPTER 1. WAVES;12
6.1;1.1 WHAT ARE WAVES?;13
6.2;1.2 WAVE-FORMS;19
6.3;1.3 WAVE DISPERSION AND GROUP SPEED;24
6.4;1.4 WAVE ENERGY;26
6.5;1.5 WAVES OF UNUSUAL CHARACTER;36
6.6;1.6 MEASUREMENT OF WAVES;42
6.7;1.7 SUMMARY OF CHAPTER 1;44
7;CHAPTER 2. TIDES;48
7.1;2.1 TIDE-PRODUCING FORCES.THE EARTH-MOON SYSTEM;48
7.2;2.2 TIDE-PRODUCING FORCES.THE EARTH-SUN SYSTEM;55
7.3;2.3 THE DYNAMIC THEORY OF TIDES;57
7.4;2.4 TYPES OF TIDE;63
7.5;2.5 SUMMARY OF CHAPTER 2;69
8;CHAPTER 3. AN INTRODUCTION TO SHALLOW-WATER ENVIRONMENTS AND THEIR SEDIMENTS;72
8.1;3.1 THE SUPPLY OF SEDIMENT TO SHALLOW-WATER ENVIRONMENTS;72
8.2;3.2 VARIATIONS INTHE SUPPLY AND DISTRIBUTION OF SHALLOW-WATER SEDIMENTS;74
8.3;3.3 THE RELATIONSHIPS BETWEEN SHALLOW-WATER ENVIRONMENTS AND THEIR CHANGES WITH TIME;75
8.4;3.4 SUMMARY OF CHAPTER 3;76
9;CHAPTER 4. SEDIMENT MOVEMENT BY WAVES AND CURRENTS;77
9.1;4.1 FLUID FLOW;77
9.2;4.2 SEDIMENT EROSION;86
9.3;4.3 THE RATE OF SEDIMENT TRANSPORT;89
9.4;4.4 THE DEPOSITION OF SEDIMENT;92
9.5;4.5 BED FORMS;95
9.6;4.6 SUMMARY OF CHAPTER 4;97
10;CHAPTER 5. BEACHES AND THE LITTORAL ZONE;100
10.1;5.1 THE DIVISIONS OF THE LITTORAL ZONE;100
10.2;5.2 SEDIMENT MOVEMENT IN THE LITTORAL ZONE;103
10.3;5.3 BEACH PROFILES;111
10.4;5.4 BEACH MATERIALS AND SEDIMENTARY STRUCTURES;112
10.5;5.5 SUMMARY OF CHAPTER 5;114
11;CHAPTER 6. TIDAL FLATS AND ESTUARIES;117
11.1;6.1 SEDIMENT TRANSPORT AND DEPOSITION ON TIDAl FLATS;117
11.2;6.2 ESTUARIES;121
11.3;6.3 SUMMARY OF CHAPTER 6;131
12;CHAPTER 7. DELTAS;134
12.1;7.1 THE STRUCTURE OF A DELTA;135
12.2;7.2 MIXING AND SEDIMENT DEPOSITION AT DISTRIBUTARY MOUTHS;137
12.3;7.3 SUMMARY OF CHAPTER 7;146
13;CHAPTER 8. SHELF SEAS;149
13.1;8.1 SHELF SEDIMENTS;149
13.2;8.2 SHELF PROCESSES;151
13.3;8.3 BED FORMS ON THE CONTINENTAL SHELF;158
13.4;8.4 SHELF PROCESSES AND SEA-BED RESOURCES;161
13.5;8.5 SUMMARY OF CHAPTER 8;164
14;SUGGESTED FURTHER READING;166
15;ANSWERS AND COMMENTS TO QUESTIONS;167
16;INDEX;189
