Ettlinger Complete Illustrated Guide to Everything Sold in Hardware Stores

1. Auflage 2011
ISBN: 978-0-9832393-0-7
Verlag: Bedford Street Media
Format: EPUB
Kopierschutz: Adobe DRM (»Systemvoraussetzungen)

E-Book, Englisch, 448 Seiten

Illustrated reference book for tools, products, and materials sold in home centers, hardware stores, and lumberyards. Includes descriptions, alternative names, use and buying tips. Essential help for the beginner, refreshing reading for the expert.

Autoren/Hrsg.

Ettlinger, Steve

Leseproben

CHAPTER
5
Saws and Accessories
About Saws
Saws come with various-sized teeth and specific numbers of teeth per inch (tpi) simultaneously designated by “points,” such as an “8-point” or “8-tpi” blade. The higher the number, the finer and slower the cutting. All saws should be kept sharp through careful use and, if possible, professional sharpening. They should be of fine-tempered steel. A little lubricating spray helps keep things moving more easily, too. Crosscut and Rip Saws
Crosscut Saw Description: Wood or plastic handle secured to a wide, slightly tapered, steel blade with jagged teeth along one edge. Lengths run from 20" to 28"; 26" is most popular. Use: Crosscut saws are used to saw boards across the grain. Rip saws have teeth designed to saw along, or with, the grain going the length of the board. Use Tips: The crosscut saw is the basic handsaw for most projects. Use a rip saw at a slightly steeper angle than a crosscut saw—60 degrees as opposed to 45 degrees. Buying Tips: Taper-ground blades (thinner along the top), which reduce binding, are recommended, as is purchasing brand names. Skewback saws, which have slightly curved topsides, are lighter and better balanced. The 8-point size is best for general crosscut work on most home projects; 10-point is for finer work and for plywood and paneling. Rip saws are in the 5- to 6-point range, and are not needed if you have power saws Also, a crosscut handsaw can suffice for the occasional rip job. About Specialized Handsaws
Saws come in a wide variety of specialized models, but the most useful ones are listed here. Only serious cabinetmakers will need more models. There are also a number of particularly useful Japanese saws; typically, such saws are made of harder steel and cut very well but, unlike American-made saws, cut on the “pull” rather than the “push” stroke, giving you more control for a smoother, more accurate cut. Backsaw
Backsaw Dovetail Saw Also Known As: Miter-box saw, miter saw Description: Rectangular, fine-toothed saw with a stiff reinforcement piece along the top or back. Smaller versions of the backsaw, the smallest having handles in line with the blade, are for very fine joint work and include the dovetail saw, cabinet saw, blitz saw, gent's or gentleman's saw, slotting saw, razorback saw, and tenon saw. The reinforced back gives greater control for fine cutting. Generally smaller than a regular saw—12" to 16"; 18" to 30" models are for use in miter boxes (below). Use: For making very accurate cuts, such as for molding. Also for use in a miter box (below). Miter Box
Also Known As: mitre box Description: Wood or plastic box with matching slots on both sides cut at 45-degree and 90-degree angles. Also available in metal with guides for the saw rather than slots. Use: To cut wood at precise angles. Buying Tips: Indicators of a quality metal miter box are roller bearings in the saw guide and grips, which allow the stock to be held so both hands can be used. Some miter boxes have magnetic mounts, which make it easier to cut more accurately. Compass Saw
Compass Saw and Interchangeable Blades Also Known As: Keyhole saw, nesting saw Description: 12" to 14" long, thin, tapered blade. Similar to a drywall or wallboard saw (Part VII, Chapter 50) but finer-toothed. Smaller versions are called keyhole saws and have fine teeth, which can often cut metal as well as wood. Also very useful are still smaller models with metal, open construction, pistol grip or turret-head handles, which can hold the smaller blades at various angles. All of these saws are often sold with several different-sized blades, and are therefore sometimes called nesting saws or nest of saws. When the handle is in line with the small blade, it may be called a jab saw, or pad saw, as well as a keyhole saw. Use: Cutting holes and curves. Use Tips: You must drill a hole to start a cut. Some of the smaller blades may cut on the “pull” stroke. Coping Saw
Coping Saw Description: Extremely thin blade, usually around 61/2" long, held by a C-shaped metal frame. Deeper-throated models are known as fret saws, scroll saws, and deep-throat coping saws. Use: Extremely fine cutting of all decorative patterns and curves. Use Tips: Keep blade highly tensioned. Adjust angles and direction of teeth for the work at hand. Buying Tips: Many specialized blades exist for cutting plastic, metal, and wood.   Japanese Saws
Japanese Saws Also Known As: Pullsaw Types: Ryoba saw Dozuki saw Azebiki saw Keyhole saw Description: Ryoba: Thin-bladed combination saw with fine teeth on both sides—crosscut teeth on one and ripsaw teeth on the other. Dozuki: Thin, fine-toothed saw with very sharp teeth and stiffening weight rib (usually of brass) along backside. Cuts very fast. Azebiki: Short, thin, slightly curved blade with fine teeth on both sides. Similar to small flooring saw (below). Keyhole: Very narrow, pointed blade with large teeth. Use: Ryoba: Traditional carpenter's general-use saw; also flush cuts. Dozuki: For fine cabinetry work and joint cutting, such as for dovetails. Azebiki: Starts cuts in middle of panels; also for flush cutting in awkward places. Keyhole: Like its American counterpart, for cutting holes with very small radii; “pull” stroke method allows for a finer blade. Use Tips: As mentioned, Japanese saws cut on the “pull” stroke rather than the “push” stroke. This certainly aids accurate cutting, makes it easier and faster, and prevents blade buckling. It also allows the use of thin blades. Warning: They are easily damaged. Buying Tips: An absolutely superior design. The ryoba as a combination model is an excellent gift item for anyone of any skill level. A definite purchase for all tool boxes. Veneer Saw
Veneer Saw Description; Small handle secured to small, slightly rounded blade with large-toothed edges. Use: Cutting veneer (extremely thin pieces of wood) and any small cuts flush with a surface. Flooring Saw
Description: Short, 8-point crosscut saw with a curved bottom cutting edge and a short cutting edge on the topside of the front end. Use: Cutting floorboards and baseboards where you need to keep the blade away from neighboring surfaces. Buck Saw
Also Known As: Bow saw Description: Extremely large-toothed blade secured between two ends of a metal bow, or handle. Not to be confused with a frame saw, popular with cabinetmakers, which is a rarefied traditional saw made of two parallel wooden pieces joined at one end by a blade and at the other by a tension cord or wire, with a bar of wood in the middle. Use: Rough cutting of logs for firewood or pruning. Buying Tips: Get a long one, about 36".   Flexible Saw
Also Known As: Pocket saw Description: Flexible wire coated with sharp tungsten-carbide particles. Has a ring on each end instead of a solid handle. Use: Limited rough cutting. Made to be portable, used by hikers. Hacksaw
Hacksaw Mini-Hacksaw Description: An adjustable or fixed-frame saw that holds a narrow, fine-toothed blade 8" to 16" long. Number of teeth per inch varies from 14 to 32 tpi, and they may be of various designs such as wavy or raker. The frame is bought separately from the blades, which are easily (and often) replaced. Some models are extra-strong and have many convenient features such as blade storage and special shapes, called high-tension hacksaw frames. Others have just a small handle in line with the blade for use in close quarters, called mini, jab, handy, close-cutting, or utility hacksaw, depending on the manufacturer. Blade may be mounted at a 90-degree angle for flush cutting. Use: Cutting metal or plastic. Use Tips: The thinner the material to be cut, the finer the blade should be. Use an 18-tpi (teeth per inch) blade on soft metals; a 24-tpi blade on medium metals; and a 32-tpi blade on hard metals. Always use higher-tpi blades on thinner material. Blade should have three teeth on the work piece. Buying Tips: Keep a supply of different-toothed blades on hand. Specialized blades are available for cutting glass or tile. Both the rod saw, a wire or rod covered with bits of tungsten carbide, and the grit saw,...