Mentges / Shamukhitdinova Textiles as National Heritage: Identities, Politics and Material Culture

1. Auflage 2017
ISBN: 978-3-8309-8609-6
Verlag: Waxmann Verlag GmbH
Format: PDF
Kopierschutz: PC/MAC/eReader/Tablet/DL/kein Kopierschutz

E-Book, Englisch, 322 Seiten

The edited volume discusses the role of textile heritage in relation to the dynamics of nation building, cultural identity, politics, economy and the globalization of markets. It was sparked by a research project investigating the role of textiles, textile design and contemporary fashion in the post-Soviet societies of Central Asia and also includes perspectives on similar developments in Algeria and Peru in order to question dichotomous narrations of modernity relations between textile cultures and heritage building, cultural property, and the concept of cultural heritage. Thus, this book intends to stimulate the ongoing debate about textile culture as national heritage or as means of nation branding.

Autoren/Hrsg.

Mentges, Gabriele

Shamukhitdinova, Lola

Inhaltsverzeichnis

1;Book Cover;1
1.1;Imprint;4
1.2;Acknowledgements;5
1.3;Contents;7
2;Introductory Remarks (Gabriele Mentges);9
2.1;Decolonizing Heritage;12
2.2;Narratives of the Silk Road: Uzbekistan;14
2.3;Textile Heritage and National Identity;19
2.4;Crafts in Motion;21
2.5;Signifying Identity;21
2.6;Consumption Scapes: Bazaars and Other Shopping Sites;22
2.7;Performing Cultural Heritage;23
2.8;Bibliography;25
3;Between Design, ‘National Dress’ and Nation Branding. The Dynamics of Textile Culture in the Process of Uzbek National Formation (Gabriele Mentges);31
3.1;Textile Cultures Now and Then;31
3.2;Performing textile traditions;35
3.3;National Dress;39
3.4;Uzbek wedding rituals and their impact on gender constellations;41
3.5;The Material of Tradition;47
3.6;Traditional Dress: A Hidden Fashion Discourse?;49
3.7;National Fashion and Textile Design;52
3.8;Nation-State, Fashion and Self-Orientalization;58
3.9;Bibliography;61
4;Fashionable Roots. Textile Heritage in Contemporary Fashion Design in Peru (Susana Aguirre);67
4.1;Introduction;67
4.2;Peru’s Fashion Industry;69
4.3;Fashioning Peruvianness;72
4.4;Designer Meche Correa;73
4.5;Brand: Escudo;78
4.6;Designer: Naty Muñoz;82
4.7;Conclusion;85
4.8;Bibliography;85
5;Textile Tradition in Kazakh Contemporary Fashion (Gulnar Soltanbayeva);89
5.1;Textile Heritage;90
5.2;Designing Kazakh Tradition;93
5.3;Bibliography;100
6;The State of Textile Arts in Today’s Kazakhstan (Ardak Yussupova);103
7;Of Dyes and Colors. Cultural Change in Uzbek Textile Crafts (Melanie Krebs);119
7.1;Natural dyes of Central Asia;122
7.2;The emergence of synthetic dyes;127
7.3;Re-inventing natural dyes after independence;130
7.4;Conclusion;133
8;The Rehabilitation of Khon-Atlas (Lola Shamukhitdinova);137
8.1;Introduction;137
8.2;Technologies and the Historical Agenda of Khon-atlas;137
8.3;Dress Practices and Style;140
8.4;Does Khon-atlas Have a Future?;147
8.5;Bibliography;149
8.6;Sources;150
9;Uzbek Skullcaps. A Popular Headwear between Traditional High Quality and Touristic Souvenir (Lola Shamukhitdinova);153
9.1;A Brief History of Central Asian Skullcaps;154
9.2;The Skullcap as Brand;158
9.3;Making the Skullcap Fashionable;159
9.4;Skullcaps and Their Changing Significance;165
9.5;The Skullcap as a “Cultural Resource”;167
9.6;The Issue of Quality: Some Recommendations;169
9.7;Conclusion;173
9.8;Bibliography;174
10;Tuskiiz – A Cultural Memory of the Kazakhs (Zhazira Zhukenova);179
10.1;Artistic and Aesthetic Content;179
10.2;Unique Technical Features of Tuskiiz Using Appliqué;180
10.3;Tuskiiz Using Chain Stitch;181
10.4;Figurative and Symbolic Meaning;183
10.5;Tuskiiz Using Appliqué;183
10.6;Tuskiiz Using Chain Stitch;184
10.7;Bibliography;185
11;A Mosaic Picture of the World. A Close-up on Kazakh Kurak Patchwork (Gaini Mukhtarova);187
11.1;Kazakhstani Traditions and Rites Associated with the Art of Kurak;187
11.2;Patchwork as a Way of Passing on Qualities and Protecting against Evil Spirits;192
11.3;The History of the Emergence of Kurak Patchwork;194
11.4;Special Features of the Kazakh Kurak;195
11.5;Kurak as the Philosophy of a Mosaic Picture of the World;199
11.6;Modern Uses of the Kurak Technique;200
11.7;Bibliography;202
12;Bazaars, Shops, Malls. Points of Sale and their Meaning for Textile Culture in Uzbekistan (Gabriele Mentges and Lola Shamukhitdinova);205
12.1;Research on Bazaars;206
12.2;The Bazaar in Central Asian Cities;208
12.3;Structure and Organization;214
12.4;To shop – But how and where?;215
12.5;Who they are – the dealers/tradesmen;216
12.6;The Bazaar and Tourism;217
12.7;Contemporary transformations;219
12.8;Old Central stores: ZUM and GUM;222
12.9;Cities and Bazaars: An Outlook to the Future;223
12.10;Bibliography;225
13;Istanbul Markets. A Reloading Point for Uzbek Craft Textiles (Gabriele Mentges and Lola Shamukhitdinova);229
14;Silk Road – Central Asia – Uzbekistan? The Collections of the Linden-Museum in Stuttgart: Evaluation and Interpretation in the Time of Emerging Nation-States of the Post-Soviet Era (Annette Krämer);239
14.1;Introduction;239
14.2;The Origins of the Linden-Museum and its Central Asian Collections;239
14.3;Friedrich Kussmaul, Iran and Afghanistan: A New Focus;243
14.4;The “State Museum,” the Orient Department and the Discovery of “Turkestan” and “Turkmens”;246
14.5;Discovering “Uzbekistan:” the 1990s;255
14.6;“Uzbek Textiles” in Stuttgart – An Outlook;264
14.7;Bibliography;266
15;Safeguarding Uzbek Textile Crafts. Strategies and Impacts (Binafsha Nodir);269
15.1;What Does the Term ‘Traditional Uzbek Textiles’ Cover?;270
15.2;Weaving;272
15.3;Embroidery;274
15.4;Traditional Crafts in the Context of Colonial Modernization;278
15.5;Strategies and the Revival of Traditional Uzbek Textiles;279
15.6;Museum Collections as a Source of the Traditional Arts Revival;284
15.7;Bibliography;290
16;A Repository of Mediterranean Memories. How a Ritual Dress Has Become a UNESCO Cultural Heritage of Humanity (Leyla Belkaïd-Neri);293
16.1;A Complex Vestimentary Heritage;293
16.2;Facing Political Disinterest in Dress Culture;294
16.3;The Unprompted Roots of a Social Phenomenon;296
16.4;The Awakening of Governmental Authorities;298
16.5;Selection Criteria;299
16.6;A Repository of Mediterranean Memories;301
16.7;Negotiating Identity through the Rediscovery of Vernacular Styles;306
16.8;Bibliography;308
16.9;Complete Bibliography;309
17;Authors;321